What draws
autumn leaf watchers onto Ontario roads in a way that residents of
Vancouver or Edmonton can’t experience? We take it for granted, but
the Great Lakes-St.Lawrence forest region contains a rare
combination of deciduous trees capable of turning to a blazing shock
of colour. We can enjoy a mixture of brilliant yellows, oranges,
reds -- even burgundy and purple -- thanks to the white oak, beech,
poplar, ash, black cherry, willow and staghorn sumac.
Next, add in
the contrast of green conifers: white and red pine, tamarack and
spruce. Most of this forest lies south of the 49th parallel, leaving
other parts of Canada with leaves that turn a dull yellow or brown.
The star of the
show is a certain tree -- one that our friends out west or on the
Rock know does not grow equally well across Canada. It's the maple,
specifically the Sugar Maple, that passes from summer-green through
yellow to orange and red. True, it turns brown after that -- but to
end up on a national flag and inspire millions, it helps if the your
main symbol echoes the colour of blood, of life.
Once the
patriotic fervour turns to a desire to commune with nature, where do
we go? Head to the hills -- those places in mountain-starved Ontario
where there is at least some topographical relief. Of course, the
west side of Lake Superior will be beautiful -- but it’s a bit far
from the province’s big cities.
Consider a trip
with a single destination, where you can drive and explore one area.
A good (and early) bet is the Almaguin Highlands, Ontario's hidden
high-country north of Huntsville. It’s a quiet, beautiful region of
rolling maple-bush hills, barely three hours from downtown Toronto.
Instead of following the busy main highways like 11, 69 and 60,
check out secondary highways and minor roads.
Remember that
many recommended “loop” drives are really quite long, and not so
relaxing -- especially for the driver watching the road. So get out
of your car: engage all the senses; feel the swish of damp leaves
underfoot -- really see the rapid change of the seasons. When you go
back to your world, summer can be properly over.
Instead of
driving for hours and hours, slow down. Try out a local eatery and
let your mind relax and soak in central Ontario’s last remaining
snow-free days of the year. Since all these areas are used to the
tourist trade, there are plenty of small resorts and B&B's to pull
into.
If you do head
to the Almaguin Highlands; hike or go for a paddle. This part of
Ontario is set up with plenty of hiking trails and canoe outfitters
-- many are happy to rent a boat for a few hours. If this sounds
like too much work, take a tour on a boat like the Seguin, which
plies the waters of Lake Muskoka out of Gravenhurst.
Remember that
provincial parks also have excellent interpretive tours as well as
easily-followed hiking trails and other resources. Consider
Killarney Provincial Park -- the crown jewel of Ontario's parks. To
see it properly, you will have to get out and walk or canoe .
East of
Algonquin Park, explore the Madawaska Highlands around Barry's Bay:
a bit longer drive, but you’ll find incredible vistas of hills,
lakes and rivers.
North of
Belleville and Napanee along Highway 41 lies Bon Echo Park where
you’ll find one of the largest granite bluffs in the province. The
drive north takes you through a quick and striking transition from
level farmlands to wild Canadian Shield. Only at Bon Echo can you
take the ‘Mugwump Ferry’ across Mazinaw Lake -- but only on weekends
into October.
If a shorter
trip is in the cards, look no further than the Niagara Escarpment
from Niagara Falls to Tobermory. It’s quite easy to fit into a
single day -- combine with a hike on the Bruce Trail or perhaps a
tour of one of the many wineries south of Lake Ontario.
Ed Drass, with
files by Jeff Edwards
edrass@nationalpost.com
IF YOU GO:
To track the
leaves, check for Fall Colours at
http://www.ontariotravel.net/ or call 1-800-ONTARIO
(1-800-668-2746).
Back roads
mapbooks are great for exploring beyond well-beaten tracks:
http://www.backroadmapbooks.com/
Visit provincial
parks online, including some fall colour updates:
http://www.ontarioparks.ca/